How much does a new deck cost in Suffolk County?

Why nobody can give you a real number over the phone

Two decks that look about the same size can land at very different prices. One sits a foot off the ground behind a ranch. The other is a full story up off the kitchen of a high ranch, with a long run of stairs to the yard. Same square footage, completely different amount of lumber, labor and time. That’s why any honest deck price starts with someone looking at the house and the yard.

What we can do here is walk you through the things that drive the price, so when you get a quote, from us or anyone else, you know what you’re looking at.

The big four

• Size and shape. More square feet means more boards and framing. A simple rectangle is the most efficient. Angles, curves, multiple levels and cut-outs around trees or windows add cutting and labor.
• Height. The higher the deck, the taller the posts, the bigger the beams, and the more bracing it needs. Working high off the ground also takes longer.
• Decking material. Pressure-treated wood is the most common and least expensive to start. Composite and PVC boards cost more up front but need less upkeep. The board you pick can change the total more than almost anything else.
• Railings and stairs. Railings are sold by the foot, and styles range from simple wood to aluminum, composite or cable. Every stair adds framing, treads and more railing.

The parts you don’t see

A lot of what goes into a good deck is hidden once it’s done, and it’s where cheap quotes cut corners:

• Footings. Holes dug to the right depth with concrete or footing systems under each post. Rocky soil, roots or tight spots add time.
• The ledger and flashing. The connection to the house has to be bolted and flashed so water doesn’t get into your house framing. It’s one of the most important parts of the deck.
• Hardware. Joist hangers, brackets, lag bolts and screws rated for treated wood and outdoor use. Near the bay, better corrosion resistance is worth it.
• Joist spacing. Composite boards usually need joists closer together than wood, which means more framing lumber.

Tearing out the old deck

If there’s an existing deck, it has to come apart and go somewhere. Removal and disposal is its own line on a good quote. Sometimes there’s a middle path: if the frame is solid, we can keep it and put new boards, stairs and railings on top. That’s often a real savings, but only if the frame checks out.

Permits, surveys and paperwork

Most new decks need a building permit, and the rules vary between the Town of Brookhaven, the Town of Islip, the Town of Smithtown, the East End towns and each incorporated village. Depending on where you live, the building department may want a survey of your property or drawings of the deck. Those can carry their own costs and add time before work can start. Check with your town’s building department early, and bring it up when we come out.

Access and the yard

If we can pull right up to the back of the house, things move faster. If every board has to be carried through a side gate, around a pool and down a slope, that takes more labor. Fences, sprinkler lines, landscaping and the air conditioning unit can all affect the layout and the work.

Extras that add up

Built-in benches, planter boxes, stair and post lighting, lattice or board skirting, a privacy wall, or a pergola overhead all make a deck nicer to use. They also add to the price. A lot of homeowners build the deck first and add some of these later.

What a good deck quote should show

Our written price is itemized, so you can see where the money goes. At a minimum, a deck quote should spell out:

• The size and layout, including stairs and landings
• The decking and railing material
• Footings and framing details
• Demo and disposal of the old deck, if any
• Who handles the permit paperwork, and what’s included
• A start date and how long the job will take

If two quotes are far apart, lay them side by side. Most of the time, they’re not pricing the same deck.